Pressed for Thought
It is glorious to look outside and see green. From my desk, I see the buds on a climbing hydrangea, bright and strong against the cool morning rain that is soaking into the ground. The sun will come, and when it does, our landscape will flood with color and life. Spring is euphoric in the northeast, and this year in particular Old Man Winter was a bear! Imagine the joy that is upon us as our temperatures rise, and the sun warms all this wet, fertile ground—that first burst of greens is a sensory overload of joy. It carries with it the very satisfying knowledge that we have indeed survived yet another winter, but also the promise of fresh flavors and new experiences.
So, what pairs with green? This is the question that I am faced with and first I had to ask what green tastes like. Spring tastes like hope, renewal, and anticipation. It also tastes like rain, minerals, and well, greens. (The English Professor in me does not abide by using the word to define the word, but in this case, I am using the noun to describe the pronoun, so I will allow it.). More specifically, lettuces, herbs, pea shoots, radishes, and chives have a flavor set that call for wines that will harmonize with fresh, citrus (acidic), fruity (sweet), earthy (salty and bitter) and floral flavors. These are descriptors that we use for wine, so it seems a natural fit, and yet, spring menus are some of the most challenging. I was seeking wines this month that have a heightened fruit to balance the acidity and earthiness of spring foods.
This is easier than you might think, especially if you entrust your wine shopping to us! The following list is filled with wines that are a bit lighter on the palate and offer a soft fruity approach with a touch less tannins, as we get our earthiness from our seasonal vegetables, but still enough acidity and flavor to handle the lamb that will potentially hit our tables this month.
Hang in there, the sun will come. In the meantime, enjoy a glass of liquid sunshine, and here are a few Spring picks,
Cheers,
Maria
Responsible Indulgence
Value Wines
24 Elvio Tintero Rosso, Biano & Rosato
Each spring, I am excited to get the Elvio Tintero wines back in from the Piedmont. The are precisely the flavors of spring—fresh, lighter, fruity wines that deliver loads of flavor and a quality that far exceeds the modest price point. The story is equally compelling.
“In 1900 a Frenchman named Pierre Tintero set out for Piedmont in search of work. He found an opportunity to do odd jobs at a small estate where widow Rosina Cortese was struggling to handle all the work herself. Pierre, called “Pietrin” by the locals, quickly became a vital part of the estate and also fell in love with the widow, whom he married two years later. The couple continued to work the vines together and bottled their own Dolcetto for the first time just as war fell in 1914. Years later their grandson would find a stash of this vintage hidden within the walls of the cellar, certainly a precaution against ransacking troops who passed through the area.
Pietrin and Rosina’s two sons, Giovanni and Carlo, eventually took over the estate and expanded it by purchasing adjacent vineyard plots. Moscato was just a tiny part of their production since it is only practical to produce it in large quantities, but after the Second World War giants Cinzano and Martini began producing the wine, so the brothers planted more of the variety to sell to these negociants while they continued bottling their still wines themselves. It was not until the 1980s that Carlo’s son Elvio began experimenting with the challenging process of frizzante wine production, allowing the family to take advantage of the grape’s special affinity to the local terroir. Elvio has now handed the reins over to the next generation, but he continues to help his son Marco and daughter-in-law Cinzia run the estate.
The commune of Mango is the heart of Moscato country, and 20 of the Tinteros’ 30 hectares are planted to this grape. Their largest parcel is in the Sorì Gramella vineyard, whose full southern exposure and gradient of more than 20% pamper the grapes with many long hours of sunshine, without even casting shadows from one row to the next as is the case in most vineyards. The resulting wine is delightfully fizzy and slightly sweet, an irresistible combination that makes it a universal favorite. Marco also maintains that same spirit in his other wines, which are all fresh, easy, and fun to drink with friends.” KermitLynch.com
The Rosso is 50% Barbera, 40% Dolcetto, 5% Nebbiolo, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and it is easy drinking. It will still surprise you with its quiet complexity, so don’t think you can just throw it back. She will demand some attention, but it invokes for me that moment when I see the first buds of the hellebores rising out of the wet, cold soil, pushing through the winter leaves. The flavors of cherry, berries, and leather it pairs well with cured meats, but can handle braised meats and risottos.
The Biano is comprised of 50% Favorita, 35% Arneis, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Moscato and yes, it has a hint of sparkle, which delights us all! This is a wine that actually has an herbal quality, so it tastes green in a wonderful fresh way. The Moscato balances this earthy quality with lovely aromatics and a tropical fruit element. It is lovely on its own, as an aperitif, but pairs wonderful with fresh fish, salads, and green veggies. Blister some green beans in a little bubbling
The Rosato is made with 85% Barbera, 12% Arneis, 3% Moscato is one of the first rosés to hit the shelves every spring and it flies out of the shop, so I am not alone in my love of it. It also has a touch of frizzante, which makes the berry flavors dance like pop rocks on your tongue. This wine is a great starter for your meal. Serve it with some blue fish pâté and an everything spice lavash!
23 Deux Moulins Sauvignon Blanc Is a classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc made in a traditional method, but where this wine surprises me again and again is its modest price point. How do they do it? That is not a rhetorical question; I really want to know how they get the quality of wine for this price? All too often, inexpensive SB tastes too astringent and edgy to a fault. This wine is smooth, layered and flavorful with expressive aromatics. It floats across my palate, refreshes me and elevates food. The citrus and tropical fruit comingle in a playful push and pull, but giving way for each to shine. I would serve this with an egg dish; it wants some fat, so a plate of beautiful fresh goat and sheep’s milk cheeses.
NV Bottom Up This is my latest label in the Tipsy Rose line up, and I am excited to share it with you. You will note that it is NV, which stands for Non-Vintage because it is a blend of wine from 23 and 24. It is also a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre from two winemakers, myself and my good friend Bruce Regalia. We decided to do a project together to economize. Truth is, all too often I am trying to explain why California struggles to compete dollar to dollar with our European counterparts. So, Bruce and I decided to create a value driven, organically farmed, delicious, hand crafted , single vineyard wine. It is from Wild Diamond vineyard, which sits at 220 feet elevation and is entirely composed of volcanic soil, so those vines work hard, which means the wine has character. I am lucky to get such great fruit! This wine is playful and approachable, but does not lack seriousness. It likes food, so get a burger and enjoy!
22 Venta la Vega El Mugrón comes to us from the foothills of the mountains of Almansa, boasts the largest single planting of garnacha tintorera in Europe. Bodegas Venta la Vega encompasses 225 ha of organically farmed vineyards in Almansa, where the high elevation (1200 m) and rocky limestone soils create distinct microclimates well suited for organic farming without needing to rely on chemical treatments. Winemaker José Ángel Martínez (of Envínate winery acclaim) works closely with legendary Bierzo oenologist Raúl Pérez to oversee every level of operations. Though ‘Adaras’ is the entry level offering from Venta la Vega, this delightful value does not disappoint! Garnacha tintorera is joined here by a touch of syrah, yielding a mouthful of fresh red fruit, mineral undertones, and a touch of spice on a medium-bodied frame that finishes clean and vibrant, all with well-integrated tannins. Organically grown I thought it would be interesting to include another high elevation Grenache. This is not a blend, but it is a medium bodied delicious red for your spring table. It would shine with a pan roasted fish, or roasted pork loin, or even some lamb.
Select Wines
24 Artuke Rioja Tinto Arturo Miguel is leading a movement of young wine makers in Rioja who are focused on origin, organic farming, and elevating the regional wines to compete on the global stage with the likes of Barolo and Barbaresco, robust but elegante wines. His wines are dominated by Tempranillo, harvesting 40 year old vines and applying traditional techniques in the winery. He is somewhat progressive in that application, returning to some carbonic maceration and use of concrete or neutral oak to soften tannins. His wines show reserve that translates on the palate to elegance. If you are creating a charcuterie board to nibble on tonight, this is your wine! It loves a little fat and salt, so you could also just pan sear a ribeye, serve it over some charred eggplant and red pepper with a drizzle of balsamic and some thinly sliced red onion & call it a day!
24 Crespaia Bianchello del Matauro This is an interesting varietal that is regionally exclusive. This one is made by Rossano and his daughter Cecilia. The grapes come from single parcels on their vineyard, hand harvested and hand crafted, as is consistent with all of our wines, and gently pressed and into stainless for fermentation to preserve freshness. The result is a delicate wine with absolutely stunning aromatics—white flowers and citrus and wet beach aromas. It holds its flavors, so you can enjoy it over a couple of days, which is wonderful for a white wine. The truth is, it is so delicious, you will find it hard not to finish it once open. It is a food friendly wine that pairs really wellwith linguini and clams.
25 Tipsy Rose Rosé Every wine I carry and make is made with intention, which means that the winemaker, myself included, thinks about what the wine should taste like and the intended style. Then we take steps, making daily decisions on a hundred variables from the vineyard to the bottle, all with the intention of creating a particular style, flavor,and quality. I have been doing this every year with every lot since 2016, and this is the first wine that is just what I envisioned. I am so pleased with this wine and cannot wait for you to try it. The approach was not a simple one, though all things done naturally. I did two picks, from 2 distinct vineyard sites, 3 varietals, 2 different vessels, and some direct to press and some cold soak prior to pressing. There will be a longer blog post about it, but it was very interesting, and I learned so much. The resulting wine has more color and body than my previous rosé; the aromatics are strawberry, citrus, and lavender, and the wine is flavorful, fresh and fruity with a soft midpalate and zippy acidity on the minerally finish.
22 Tellus Bordeaux This wine is an exceptional value, delivering a quality that far exceeds its price point. It is also a Bordeaux that anticipated the shift in focus. The palate has changed for the new Bordeaux drinkers, who seek a more elegant expression of this classic region, as well as approachable prices! These grapes are harvested from vineyards that border the Lalande de Pomerol appellation, which is an indication of value—as it is an often-overlooked appellation. It is also a Merlot driven area, so the wines are more approachable and softer, rounder, and so inviting. The grapes undergo a three-day cold maceration; the alcoholic fermentation then proceeds for eight to ten days. The wine is racked several times during its élevage in stainless steel and cement tanks before being bottled after an egg-white fining. The grape composition is predominantly Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc in the blend that provides additional structure and a nice grippy character, that I love. I enjoyed this last night with a ribeye that I just pan seared with a little salt and yes, a dollop of butter!
24 Meloviro Frappato I love a light bodied wine that has some punch, which is precisely what this bright little number is. It is the embodiment of spring. Crunchy red fruit, intense herbal notes, loads of salinity and mineral flavors and bright acidity to balance the fruitiness. It comes from Sicily, classic Frappato, and it gains its complexity from spontaneous ferment and the iron rich soils of Vittoria. There is just a hint of grip on the finish that makes it a very food-flexible wine. Enjoy it with something spicy, whether you want Kimchi or pasta Amatriciana it will satisfy.
24 Azimut Blanco This white blend never fails me. I love the aromatics, which draw me into the glass, and the complex flavors that passes over my palate refelct the complexity only arrived at by careful blending. 40% Macabeu, 30% Xarel-lo 30% Garnatxa, 10% Malvasia are blended after a long, cold slow ferment and then 90 days in concrete to allow for Malolactic fermentation, which gives the wines it curious texture. Once blended, the wine is bottled, and the end result is truly magical! This is a perfect wine to start a dinner party with charcuterie or a crudité, or enjoy it with a spring pea risotto and some grilled prawns.
Collector Wines
Each month, I select wines for the Collectors in the club with the idea that you may be considering aging wines, so most often, they have the ability to age. Please know that if you enjoy the wine now, it will only improve with aging, and we are happy to order the wines for you, should you want to add a few to your cellar. Keep in mind, special orders for club members, will get the special club pricing, which is significantly lower than retail pricing.
This month, you are getting a wine that the winery has aged for you. At Lopez de Heredia, they hold back their reds. We are the fortunate ones, that they can afford to do that, so the current release is already fourteen years old!
12 Lopez de Heredia Tondonia This wine has a vibrant color that suggests youth, which is an indication that it can continue to age gracefully. It has a surprising lightness on the palate for the intensity of fruity and toasty aromas. Yes, this wine is oaked, as is the style of Rioja, which gives the wine depth, tannins and richness of flavor. The blend (75% Tempranillo with a little Granacha, Mazuela and Graciano) is all estate grown, vinified and bottled. The wine is aged for 10 years in barrel and racked twice annually. While this not an inexpensive wine, this kind of labor and care is so costly, so I still feel the wines is a value at $76! This is a wine that shines with foods with some spice, herbs, and fat. I suggest a paella, but that is some work! You could also enjoy it with braised meats, cured jamon, strong cheeses—washed rinds, blue cheese, and it would stand boldly with a simple pan seared steak.
24 Ostatu Rioja Blanco The complexity of the white Rioja is derived from the thirty to eighty-year-old vines. Vines of the age are producing much less fruit, but with increased intensity of flavor and aromatics. It is 85% Viura and 15% Malvasia, both come for the highest and oldest vineyards in the district at 580 m above sea level. The soils are quite challenging, so the vines are stressed and work hard to get the nutrients they need. This is so counter intuitive, I know, but when cared for properly, this makes for more interesting wines. This wine is destemmed before pressing, to highlight the fruit, pressed and co-fermented in stainless steel. The result is a pale yellow and greenish hue that sparkles in the sunlight and an expressive nose. It co-mingles citrus and green apple with soft floral and culinary herbs that bespeaks a garden at bud break with the minerality of a fresh rain. I am going to enjoy this with a simple piece of roasted fish with a citrus beurre blanc.