Responsible Indulgence—June Wine Notes

 

Responsible Indulgence 

June 2025 

I am just back from California, and excited to start enjoying summer delights here in the ocean state.  Yes, lobster rolls, beach picnics, ice cold rosé in the summer sunshine, mussels & frites, and burgers on the grill, pasta salads, biking around the drive, and jumping in the ocean off of the rocks. We all have our favorite watering hole in which to swim and to sip!  As always, wine is all about coming together with the people we love, connecting and sharing stories, food and laughter.  With connecting in mind, I chose wines this month that will keep us refreshed and light on our feet, so we can enjoy the summer fare and dance all night!  You will note that there is a lighter style for the summer selections, bright acidity and fresh fruit flavors.  These wines still have intensity of flavor, so they can stand up to the char of the grill and the flame—if you dare! 

 

Value Wines 

Mandriola de Lisboa 

Syrah, Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Nacional, Portugal 

Mandriola Lisboa translates literally to man from Riola, Lisbon. This wine is reminiscent of a walk down memory lane of the streets of Lisbon. It has a ripe fruitiness and peppery flavor that contradicts itself so beautifully that you are transported to the wine makers memory of what being on the streets of Lisbon feels like. I can imagine walking through a city with the ripe smell of cured meats and sea salty air, and the lingering scents of European cigarettes being smoked nearby. Drinking this wine feels like a welcoming hug into a city I've never been to. I can imagine drinking this wine with a delicious piece of Iberico ham, or any array of delicious Spanish inspired tapas; Something as light and beautiful as this wine, and city where it's from. Lianna 

Mas de Valeriole, Vé 

Caladoc & Merlot, France 

As May comes to a close, I'm really leaning into my rosé era. There's just something so refreshing about wrapping up a Rhody springtime evening with a rosé that altogether tastes like flowers and the ocean. This wine comes to us from Provence, France—"vé" is actually a native Provençal expression for "look at that!". With the Rosenthal Merchant stamp on the back, you're going to want to do more than just look at this bottle! A blend of Caladoc, Merlot, and Syrah sent direct-to-press (no maceration), this light-bodied gem is tinged with sea salt, citrus, white flowers, and strawberries. Take your glass outside to be enjoyed as its own apertif or a perfect match for seafood and salad—good wine necessitates even better company, so grab a friend while you're at it. Sophie 

Domaine de Terrisses Caractere Gaillac Blanc 

60% Loin de l'Oeil 20% Mauzac 20% Sauvignon Blanc, France 

I was unfamiliar with the Gaillac appellation, located in southwest France, and definitely not any white from the region. The grapes for this wine get more of a Mediterranean influence, rather than from the Atlantic, and enjoy a bit of a cool and humid microclimate. Because of this, this wine does have character. It's a crisp white that gives green fruit, pear, kiwi, green herbs, a little salinity and wet stone. The winemaker recommends drinking this young with white fish, shellfish, and appetizers, but after a couple years drinking it with white meats or fish with sauces. I personally imagine grilled shrimp, barbecued oysters, or a lobster roll. Brandee 

Grapesmith & Crusher 

Cabernet Sauvignon, California 

This cab comes from sustainably grown grapes by multigenerational winemakers in Washington's Columbia Valley. They certainly know how to make a beauty of a wine. The wine spends 13 months in barrels on the lees, and the result is one expressive wine. I got a new experience with every sip. Brambly fruit, plums, spice, vanilla, oak, leather, soft hidden tannins all in harmony. Enjoy now with your grilled burgers or lamb; a summer sip for those red wine drinkers. Or save it for cozier roast dinners. A great value! Brandee 

Phileman Gaillac Croix de la Bouscarie 

Duras, Gaillac, France 

Mathieu has 50 acres/20 hectares of vineyards in production along the Cordes plateau on south facing slopes with a calcerous soil. They are planted almost entirely to the traditional Gaillac grape varieties: Loin de L’oeil, Mauzac and Muscadelle for the whites, and Braucol (fer servadou), Duras, Prunelart and Jurançon Noir for the reds. The vines are largely trained in the gobelet fashion meaning that they are head pruned and yields are kept exceedingly low: 40 hl/h for the whites and 30hl/h for the reds. A good proportion of the vines are more than fifty years old and the harvest is done entirely by hand. As a result of Mathieu’s severe pruning the low yielding vines produce a wine that is very dark with purple hues. The wine exhibits the region’s typically savory and spicy flavors which flow through the palate without any real tannins. Wine Traditions 

Pomalo Freskavina 

Graševina (aka Welschriesling), Slovenia 

Embracing the minimal intervention approach in the cellar, hand-harvested grapes were destemmed, a short maceration, then pressed into a stainless steel tank to undergo spontaneous fermentation. Racked and left for 5 months on the lees. Lightly sulfured and filtered before bottling.Graševina is the most widely planted white grape in Croatia, and most prominently grown in the Slavonia area near the border of Hungary. You can’t talk about Croatian whites, without talking about Graševina! The whole point of Pomalo is to take it easy and not take things too seriously – like the name of this wine: Freškavina, loosely translated to “freshy wine”. Nothing too technical here. With the gentle expression of native yeast fermentations, Freškavina, exudes the floral aromatics and tropical fruit expression of Welschriesling, with a bright and crispy backbone that makes it super oh so refreshing. In a region famous for cured and smoked pork, pair with paprika cured meats (Kulen), fish paprikaš, vegetable stew, and crispy lard cracklings (čvarci). Pomalo Wine Co Website 

 

 

Select Wines 

Bertand Gaillot Coteaux de Giennois Sancerre 

Sauvignon Blanc, France 

All I can say about this wine is, stock up—the bang for the buck on this bottle is too good to be true. Bertrand Gaillot began producing wine in 2004, working plots in France's Sancerre and Coteaux de Giennois regions. Coteaux de Giennois sits just northeast of Sancerre, so you're getting an exceedingly high quality wine at a far better value. I would echo Lianna in that this Sauvignon Blanc is uber fresh, clean, and crisp, even lighter and breezier than its 100% Sancerre relatives. With a balanced minerality and notes of white flowers, I would bask with this wine in the sunshine any day of the week. Sophie 

 

This Sancerre is unlike any I have tried before. It has a freshness and crispness to it that is slightly reminiscent of a Pinot Grigio. It leaves behind all that grapefruit and citrus fruit forwardness of its Sauvignon Blanc cousins and really takes on the flavor of the mineral rich soil the vines are grown in. The grapes are grown in three separate parcels on the Domaine de L'Estang winery and their clay-limestone and flint soils really add a depth of flavor and richness to this wine that makes it so refreshing and leaves you wanting more. It has a flavor that reminds me of being in a spa and enjoying the beautiful jasmine white tea offered to you after a relaxing massage. This beautiful white would pair well with shellfish and oysters, and tis the season. Sit outside and enjoy this delicious white with some of your favorite mineral rich seafoods of our oceans and bring yourself to a place of pure bliss and relaxation! Lianna 

Les Vieux Moulins Les Helices 

Cabernet Sauvignon , Cabernet Franc, & Merlot, France 

This Bordeaux plays nice. It's not too forward, it's lightly fruity, and the tannins pretend like they're going to linger, but quietly slip away. A medium body red with earthy-musky-smoky notes, and dark red fruits. The third generation winemaker takes a non-intervention approach, and is certified organic. Have this with beef, stews, or game dishes. Brandee 

Railsback Fréres Les Rascasses Rosé 

Cinsault, Grenache, & Mourvèdre, California 

Talk about a French-inspired wine! For me, this rosé is all that's needed for a refresh after a long workday (or any day, really). For brothers, Eric and Lyle Railsback, "Les Rascasses" rosé is a Californian reinvention of Provençal rosé, made famously by Lulu Payarud. During the Railsback bros extended stay in France with Lulu, she mastered the bouillabaisse dish, with the core ingredient being the "scorpion fish", giving name to this wine. "Les Rascasses" is a three-part blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault grapes, grown in Santa Ynez, California, in close proximity to the ocean. A glass of this wine is dry and pale with expressions of strawberry, salt, and citrus. I imagine myself enjoying a glass (plus Lyle's fishy artwork) with mussels or caprese salad with friends on the porch. Sophie 

Chateau La Bourree 

70% Merlot & 30% Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux, France 

Château La Bourrée extends over 12 hectares in the village of Saint Magne-de-Castillon where the upper river plain meets the first hillsides. The vineyard is planted with 70% Merlot, and 30% Cabernet Franc. The yields are kept to 45h/hl by green harvesting and leaves are pulled as needed to insure proper ripening. All the grapes are brought to a sorting table before entering the winery allowing only the best fruit to be vinified. Before the alcoholic fermentation begins, the grapes macerate for a few days at a cold temperature. After fermentation the wine stays in contact with the skins for two weeks after which the wine is aged in used barrels for a year and then another six months in tank before bottling. Wine Traditions 

This wine is a perennial favorite for us.  It has an alluring intensity of flavor that makes me want to pan sear a New York strip steak, make an accompanying green salad, and break bread with friends.  You could go for the grill, the wine can handle it, with loads of brambly fruit, earthy notes, and the tannins from the CF, but I like the butter for some added richness with the Merlot. Either way, you are in for a treat.  This wine exhibits all that we love about Bordeux at a very modest price point. 

Chateau La Caminade Cahors 

85% Malbec & 15% Merlot, Cahors, France 

This wine comes from the best parcels in the La Caminade vineyard. Typically, they are parcels of old vines growing on the “third terrace”, but the final selection is made after the fermentations have occurred. For this cuvée, the Ressès try to use exclusively Auxerrois (Malbec) although sometimes a small amount of Tannat is blended for complexity. The harvest is triaged before entering the vat house and fermentations are done in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. Maceration is extended to five weeks. M. Ressès has devised a system that allows for very gentle pumping of the juice over the cap. The wine is aged in oak barrels, typically one fourth new, for one year. The result is a deep and concentrated wine that typifies the Quercy region. Wine Traditions 

Another rock star from my friends Ed & Barbara of Wine Traditions. 

Les Vieux Moulins Les Heliers 

Merlot & Cabernet Franc, Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux, France 

The Blaye appellation takes its name from the main town of the region which is strategically situated some 50 kilometers downstream from Bordeaux on the right bank of the Gironde estuary. The town of Blaye has a rich and frequently bellicose history with military encampments being built there as early as 25BC by the Romans. The town has also been historically, an important stop along the pilgrimage road to Compestella, serving as it still does today, as the port for crossing the Gironde to reach Bordeaux. Today, the wine appellation is called Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux and together with Côtes de Castillon and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux, forms a triumvirate that includes “Côtes de Bordeaux” in their names. The Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation spreads from the town of Blaye throughout 39 villages and is a quiet region with a mix of vineyards, crops, forest and prairie. 

Château Les Vieux Moulins is the property of Damien Lorteau. He took over in 2010 from his parents and grandparents. He inherited 20 hectares, 11 in the village of Reignac and 9 in the village of Anglade. In acknowledging the difference between the terroirs, Damien produces two wines, one from each village. His vineyards are certified organic and Damien has increased the density in his vineyards so that nearly all the parcels have 7,000 plants per hectare. His winemaking philosophy is non-interventional. He allows the indigenous yeasts to ferment the juice and uses very little SO2 throughout the process. Fermentations are carried out in small cement tanks and Damien avoids both pump overs and moving the wine by pump after fermentation. The labels were designed by a Swedish artist named Madlen Herrstrom. Wine Traditions 

 

This is a particularly good value Bordeaux with loads of brambly fruit and earth, and leather, and tobacco, all of which I adore with steaks on the grill or a lamb loin shop or a big fat mushroom cap drizzled with a summer pistou. 

Collector Wines 

Robert Sinskey Vineyards POV 

Cabernet Franc, Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon, California 

Slow clap for the Robert Sinskey POV. The wine inside this bottle is as special as the photography on the label, which are taken by the winemaker from around their vineyards and farms. The Robert Sinskey Vineyard is one of the most special vineyards I have ever had the pleasure of visiting. The dedication to care and sustainability they take on their vineyards and farms produces a spectacular product, and this blend is no exception. With a dark ruby red color and aromas of dark fruit and baking spices the flavor is balanced and earthy. It is so luscious and palatable is has become one of my cult classic all time favorite wines and I'm sure you will feel the same way about it! You can enjoy this wine on its own as I recommend because it is. Just. That. Good. Or with your favorite steak dinner and best friends! A wine this good is meant to be shared. Or not. Your choice! Lianna 

Robert Sinskey Abraxas 

Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, & Gewürztraminer, California 

I want to personally say "thank you" to Robert Sinskey for this wine—it's on another level (no pun intended)! From unscrewing the cap and popping out the glass cork like a slipper, you know this white is going a phenomenal experience, through and through. Sinskey represents the environmentally-minded side of winemaking by taking to heart the connection between a healthy vineyard and quality wine, as noted on his website, "to heal an ailing earth". It makes sense that Maria, herself, works out on Sinskey vineyards, producing Tipsy Rose, given her mission for natural wines and "Responsible Indulgence". Four grapes compose "Abraxas", each balancing out the other—Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer—and all are hand-harvested at night, so there's a cool freshness to enjoy with each sip. There's an array of bright, dry notes layering this drinking experience from melon and pear to oyster shell and honeysuckle flowers. Like the Los Carneros, Cali sunshine, this white will lift you right up. Grab Thai or maybe some blue cheese as a pairing partner—We have some amazing "Ewe's Blue" cheese from Old Chatham Creamery in the fridge this month just calling your name!! Sophie 

 

 Thanks to my team for their interest in wine and for all the help in compiling these notes. They are meant only to arouse your appetite for the wines, not to tell you what your experience is or should be. Be your own writer and taster!

I hope you enjoy your wine with friends.  Summer is a special time when we spill out of our homes, bump into old friends, move into new spaces and experiences...enjoy it all, have an ice cream and let the rain wash the dishes. 

Cheers, Maria 

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Responsible Indulgence-May 2025